Conquer the Rain: The F Word

Rear fender & mud flap

They beat me to the ground, kicked me aside and called me a “wuss”, but inside I was warm and smiling.

As far back as I can remember there has been a stigma against certain bike parts. Bits of bicycle artillery that through poor development, genetic disposition, social stigma or just plain bad luck, have permanently slipped away from the realm of “real” cyclists. Bicycle indicator lights, rear view mirrors, bells, horns, even full panniers are seldom seen on bikes ridden by “serious” cyclists. To install such things would lose friends and possibly end if physical harm for offending those higher up the coolness ladder.

But are those things really so uncool?

Being stuck inside on rollers because of the rain is not fun and it’s been like that for a few weeks now. It’s been at least a few weeks since I managed a long ride and it’s depressing. But how can I get out in the rain?

Traditional Wisdom

Traditional answers to riding in the rain have proved lacking.

Just get wet is the first choice. You’re hard, just stick it out, be tough. Uh, sorry but suffering for nothing doesn’t make sense. Works fine if it’s balmy 30C outside, but not when it’s getting to the low teens. Staying dry is also helps keep warm.

So keep dry. A whole slew of waterproof gear is available, but with high-tech materials like GoreTex, you’re pushing big budgets for a full set of gear. But you’re still getting really wet, and simply holding the enemy at bay.

On the cheaper end, a 7-11 disposable raincoat actually does a pretty damn good job at keeping the upper body dry. Underneath that plastic bag almost any combination of layers of clothing will warm you up enough. But what about the legs?

Legs just aren’t designed for being wrapped in bags. Feet can handle bags, but they will wear through in less than an hour or two or solid riding in the wet and rain. Once the water seeps in, all is lost. They will not dry, even if you ride them in the glorious light of the warm sun for the rest of the day. And legs will get drenched, the splash from the front wheel spraying up covers the legs and deposits most of itself on your shoes. Same goes for the spray from the back wheel that will strike the seat tube and join forces with the evil front spray to thwart even your boldest efforts at keeping dry.

But what if you could keep the rain from reaching you in first place? What if instead of hand to hand combat against the foe, you could simply lift the drawbridge and leave him shouting at you in your safe haven? What if all our current schemes have been fatally flawed from the start?

The Hero

The hero of our story arrives. In gleaming armor he steps up to claim his honor.

But he needs some introduction, because he has been neglected and put aside for quite a while now. Now, bikes in Taiwan are used much more as commuting machines than back in South Africa, flat roads and close proximity to the places you need to go make it very easy to do a short ride instead of a long walk. They’re also very cheap and practical, keeping them well clear of the fads that sweep the world of fancy bikes.

Bells are cool, flat pedals are cool, single gears are cool, low prices are cool, racks are cool, front baskets are cool, upright riding positions are cool and so are… fenders.

Another angle

And as it turns out, the fender is the long-lost hero and the key hours of unadulterated pleasure in the rain. This unsung hero will stop almost all the water before it even gets to you. Clean little raindrops are an easy force to deal with when the onslaught of streams of muddy grime don’t even make their way into the picture.

So that is my next accessory. I’m gonna geekify my ride, add long mud flaps and just kit my beast out with the most killer rain-stopping accessories known to mankind. They’re still in the works, but when they’re done I’ll have a full report back. I’m looking forward to some seriously geeky fun.

I might never be cool again, but that’s okay, ’cause it will be a “happily ever after”.

[Here’s a nice link about fendersĀ http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fenders.html. And a design for mudflaps linked to from thereĀ http://phred.org/~alex/bikes/fendermudflap.html ]

First image credit, Second image credit

How to Repair Shimano Cycling Shoes

My Shimano cycling shoes have taken quite a beating over the years. A month or so ago the hard, plastic sole started breaking from the leather uppers.

I was a little disheartened, but decided that the simplest fix would probably be the best. I had some electrical tape wrapped around my shoes for a few days to stop further separation.

Here’s the steps I took:

  1. Buy shoe glue. The type I bought simply had a picture of a shoe on it, so I just bought it. This glue was KS Brand and labelled as “Chloroprene“.
  2. Open up the areas to be glued as much as possible. I don’t recommend opening parts that are still firmly glued.
  3. Dust off the surfaces. Wipe with a paper towel, or in my case I just used my finger to wipe off dust and dirt.
  4. Apply glue to both surfaces (keep them apart for now) then allow to dry for 10-15 minutes.
  5. Carefully align surfaces then press together firmly for a minute or two.
  6. Leave for a few hours to fully dry. Use heavy objects to continue to apply pressure to those spots that need it.

I went on a 100km ride the morning after fixing these, so a long cure time is not really necessary. So far they are holding out, there are no obvious signs of further separation.

You’ve just saved yourself a bundle of cash and extended the life of your beloved shoes.

Next step: go ride your bike. Cheers.

Cateye Cordless 2 Bike Computer

Cateye Cordless 2 Bike Computer

There are some products that I just can’t help but endorse. The oldest stuff on my bike are usually those parts that have served me so well that there is no need to replace them.

After a decade of use, my Cateye Cordless 2 bike computer is still going pretty strong.

Now it doesn’t include the huge variety offered in newer computers, but it does have these:

  • Current speed
  • Odometer
  • Max speed
  • Trip average speed
  • Trip distance
  • Trip time
  • Clock
  • Two wheel size settings

When I first got this bike computer the best part was doing away with the cables that had always been a hassle when cleaning my bike or taking things apart. Instead of having to deal with the cables, I could just remove the sensor or computer as necessary.

I was originally worried about how well the wireless would work out as it was pretty new at the time. I never had any problems, except near powerful electric fields, so things might go wonky under power lines. Despite this it was still less sensitive to interference than my Polar heart rate monitor.

The computer also stores the odometer reading in non-volatile memory. The total speed is saved on the computer and does not reset when the battery is removed or replaced. That in itself was a godsend at the time, when my other bike computer (also a Cateye) would just lose that precious data. Now, with many online recording methods I don’t feel so bad to lose that data, but it does feel good to see those numbers tick up slowly. I still remember how I savored the day when it turned over from 9,999 to 10,000… sweet memories.

After more than a decade of use there have been some problems.

The range between the sensor and the computer is very limited. As a tall rider with long legs and short arms (think T-Rex, but not so extreme) my handlebars are set very high. At this height the sensor has to be placed high on the forks go get any information to pass to the computer, I’ve even changed the placement of the computer because the handlebars between it and the sensor messes up the signal a bit.

The batteries need regular replacement and have solved any occasional issues with no signal. I would rather set and forget, but over time it’s been worth it.

So although it doesn’t do all the fancy-pants stuff a high-specced Garmin or other computer can do, it has served me well and performed awesome for the task it was designed for.