The Hello Kitty Bike

Christina and the Hello Kitty bike

When my wife originally wanted to go riding with me and needed a new bike, the Giant Hello Kitty caught her attention.

Its first major ride was a 70km ride from Yonghe to Fulong even though she had never been a cyclist and had not done training of any kind. She threw her bag on the rack, held it down with the sprung part included on cheaper racks and just headed off. What a trooper.

Now, 7 years later, the bike is still in use. It doesn’t get nearly as much use as any of our other bikes, but it is a staple in the stable of loyal chariots.

Bicycle baskets rule

Amongst its features are:

  • Big basket (with Hello Kitty picture up front)
  • Downtube-only “girls” bike design
  • Kick stand attached to rear wheel bolt
  • Big seat with springs for comfort (but not comfortable)
  • Hello Kitty bell
  • 6-speed Grip Shift (rear gears only)
  • Caliper front brakes
  • Drum brakes at the back

The child seat at the back was most often used on my mountain bike when I used to take Christina out on bike rides. It was a little more pricey than the other models available and seemed more comfortable. It was just the right size when she was almost two years old and it is still fine now. She enjoys trying to climb up and into the seat on her own now.

Although it is not my first choice by any means, it is still a regular in our household.

I think it will continue to be for some time too.

Pedaling for Greatest Efficiency

“Just hop on and enjoy the ride” – a mantra I can appreciate.

Throw all concerns to the wind, just get on with it, cut to the heart of a great ride.

But…

If you want to go that little bit further, save that little bit more energy and make your long efforts feel that much easier, then a slight change in riding style is probably called for.

The reality is that any ride is directly affected by how effectively you pedal. When going for distance or going for speed, or anything beyond a quick spin around the block, how fast you pedal has a direct effect on your overall energy usage and power output.

Usually…

People will hop on a  bike and start to pedal at a pace that feels comfortable. And surely being comfortable is a major concern, right?

Or course.

But what we find comfortable is actually more accurately described as “what you’re used to”. Pedaling in the same way as you always have is just falling back on your experience, and chances are that your experience has probably taught you some bad habits.

To break those bad habits you’ll need to bring a bit of science and timing into your pedaling action. So here’s the background information.

What is Cadence?

Cadence is how fast your pedals are turning around while you’re pedaling.

Thanks to the invention of gears you end up turning your legs around at about the same cadence all the time. You adjust the gears to be easier when you are climbing a hill and you adjust them to be harder when you are descending or on a flat.

Low cadences require you to put more pressure on the pedals to maintain the same speed. This puts stress on your muscles for hard strength. Spinning as low as 60 puts most of the strain on these parts of your muscles.

Higher cadences require you to put downward pressure on your muscles but require you legs to turn over very quickly. Racers will typically keep their cadence over 90, while spin at up to 120 during time trials and such speed events.

What Is The Best Cadence?

This article on Cycling Performance suggests that the perfect cadence is somewhere from 85-100 RPM.

It varies depending on the terrain, but a smooth, fast cadence will increase your overall efficiency.

How do you work out your cadence?

Many bike computers/speedometers and fancy bike gadgets work this out for you. They will have a sensor mounted by the crank.

But if you don’t have one you can get a general idea of how fast you are pedaling.

You’ll need:

  • An easily visible timer (preferably on the handlebar, a watch can be wrapped around the handlebar for this purpose too, if necessary)
  • A clear road (because your focus will not be entirely on the road for up to 15 seconds)
  • You math hat

Counting cadence:

  • 1 revolution = right side pedal movement from bottom position (6 o’clock), all the way around, past 12 o’clock, and back to the 6 o’clock position

Timing (best shown by example):

  • 6 seconds = every stroke from the moment the clock shows :00 to the last moment it shows :05 (stop counting once the clock shows :06)
  • 12 seconds = every stroke from the moment the clock shows :00 to the last moment it shows :11 (stop counting once the clock shows :12)

The process:

  • Start riding
  • Settle into a single gear at a constant speed
  • Start counting pedal strokes when the timer hits :00 (first stroke is the second time the right pedal is at the bottom)
  • Stop counting as soon as the timer hits :06 (or :12)
  • Multiply the result by 10 (or 5) to get your cadence

Because you’re multiplying by 10, it’s important to start and stop counting at the right time.

If your cadence is too low, change to an easier gear (bigger cog at the rear or small chainring at the front). If it’s too high, change to a bigger chainring at the front or a smaller cog at the back.

How Will This Help Anything?

There is a useful test you can do which is outlined at the link above.

The test goes like this:

  • Thorough warm-up (20 minutes, with a few fast efforts)
  • Rest for 5 minutes
  • Pick your usual gears with slower cadence
  • Go flat out for 15 minutes and time it
  • 15 minutes rest
  • Change to an easier gear
  • do 15 minutes hard again

Try the same two days later, with the higher cadence part first and you will be able to feel the difference.

100K on the Dahon Super Comp Folding Bike

The best way to test a bike is to ride it for a long time and a long distance.

Small niggles and annoyances are easily overlooked on bicycles that are seldom used, or only used for short commutes.

There’s precious little time to determine just how well things work as the ride is over before any poor design elements of the bike start to rear their ugly heads.

Longer rides are a true test of just how well all the parts work. After a few hours in the saddle, as your body starts to become tired and your muscles start to ache, every little creak, every little part that is slightly out of place and every uncomfortable element become painfully obvious and a constant hinderence to riding performance.

This is when the real test begins.

I recently took the Dahon Super Comp for a 100K ride to test these very elements.

And this is what I found.

I’ll start with the good stuff, then move onto my dislikes.

Overall solid build

The whole build is nice. There is nothing out of place, the only small consistent noise is the rear fender, which will probably get fixed. I’m still concerned when I hit bumps or need to go off sidewalks since I’ve read the big warning sticker warning against off-road use and not riders over 105kg, a weight that I am too close to for my own liking.

Still haven’t tried folding much, but that’s another post in itself.

Relaxed riding position

This is the most upright position I’ve ridden in. The handlebar is actually about 1cm higher than the saddle. The reach from seat to handlebar is also very short, approximately 6-8cm shorter than my regular ride.

This certainly came through with much less pressure on my arms throughout. The pain I sometimes start to feel from my palms did not happen during the ride. This could also be, in part, due to the nice comfy grips.

Comfy grips

I’ve eyed these new “ergonomic” grips for a while and wondered if they really work well. The ones on this bike are fat, softish and have the ergonomic bump facing the rider. The bump is supposed to support the ball of your hand so your wrists don’t rest at an extreme angle.

These grips tend to slip while riding, meaning that they start to rotate backwards slowly. This would be eliminated by a set that have fasteners at the ends.

Comfy seat

Maybe I’ve been riding on the vicious Selle seat for too long, but this seat felt very comfy. It was comfortable throughout the ride.

Front shifting very heavy

No matter how much I try to adjust them I can only get a decent match on the setup. The match of the three speed shifter with a two-ring crankset is not good. My other bikes has not needed the gears adjusted in over two years and works precisely every time.

The upside is that on flats there was almost no need to change chainrings.

But, the downshift is too much lighter than the upshift. Although the upshift is heavy, just a small nudge on the shifter could push it down to the smaller cog. I don’t expect the downshift to be tougher, I expect the upshift to be better.

Poor water bottle position

Bad cage design aside, getting my Zefal Magnum bottle in and out was a bit of a squeeze. The top of the bottle hits the stem.

I had to use a slightly sideways motion to slip the first part into the cage, then push in as normal.

Stupid brake levers

There are times when developments are made for no reason, and at other times it seems like products are deliberately downgraded to be crappy.

These levers feel like that.

The braking action is fine and the barrel adjustment works as expected. But the position of the fastening screw is ridiculous.

On longer rides it is necessary to move your hands around on the handlebar to give you hands a break. Rather than the usual position for the screw, down and out of the way, it has been positioned in the exact position where it will press directly into the palm of my hands when I rest my hands there. It is still possible to put your hands there, but it’s very awkward and I had to twist my wrists in a slightly strange position for that.

Disintegrating rubber handlebar guides

In order to assist with the disassembly and reassembly of the bike, the handlebar has two rubber stoppers to indicate where the center of the bar is. This helps when putting the handlebar back on the stem as the stop mark the right position.

However, after a few rides the rubber has started to deteriorate, so if you rub your hands on them you’ll get black marks on your hands.

This has little bearing on riding, but is a concern for commuters who are riding in their smart clothes. Last thing they need is to get black marks on their clothes.

Rattling rear fender

The rear fender rattles a bit. This got progressively worse throughout my ride.

I narrowed this down to the clip that fastens between the seatstays. It might just need a bit of crimping, but after that is sorted out it should be a very quiet ride indeed.

Conclusion

My test ride was a bit faster than I’d intended, simply due to time constraints. At a slightly slower speed this bike would probably be fine for over 150km. And as I’ve stated before, that’s even easier if the bike fits you.

The feel of the bike is good, the ride is smooth and the brake lever clamp was the only persistent niggle throughout.

Overall I’m pretty happy with it.